Thursday, October 12, 2017

Chicago, Chicago ... What a Hellava' Town!

An argument is that Chicago thinks of itself as a country


Before I retired I would make a yearly pilgrimage to Chicago representing an outdoor furniture manufacturer for the Annual Casual Furniture Show. I started I guess in the 90's and continued until I had to bow out in 2007 after some serious medical issues and retire. I, of course, missed the 2001 show as I was waiting for the Super Shuttle to pick me up for my trip to Chicago from LAX, September 11, 2001. As I watched the second plane hit the Trade Towers in NYC on TV, I called them and cancelled the pick-up to their great annoyance. When asked why I explained what I was watching and said I didn't think anyone would be flying that day. She agreed.
   So, its been about 11 years since I have been there. I so enjoyed my visits and would make a point of going to one of its premiere attractions ... The Art Institute, Sears Tower, Field Museum, walking the Miracle Mile. Now, I would be able to do just about anything I wanted and didn't have to deal with the numbing boredom of a trade show, a demanding client, or rooming with someone I may not have liked.
   As a news junkie, I could also not ignore the years of violence that has seemed to rock this city since my last visit. While there were dicey areas then, you simply avoided them and enjoyed the sites. However, as we soon discovered, there is a kind of tension, a seeming lack of patience or courtesy that displayed itself over and over again wherever we went.
You take your life in your hands crossing the street!
   Having just studied the laws regarding drivers here in California for my drivers test, believe it or not, pedestrians have the right of way ... always. Imagine my shock when, as we were crossing clearly marked street corners, drivers turning right would whip around us ... not once but at every corner. There simply was no patience of any kind. One night a woman driver kept angling around me as we walked across a clearly marked crossing with a light that said we could walk. I have never seen such driving ... anywhere. If a car delays a nano second at a green light a horn will sound - not just one either. This is a city that drives by its horns and speed and impatience.
   As a kid I remember a Disney cartoon where Goofy, playing a kind father and husband became a kind of beast the minute he got behind the wheel of his car. His antics were funny to me as a child but are not so funny as an adult crossing the street. In Chicago Goofy comes to life.
   We did enjoy ourselves though but quickly learned to gauge drivers. On our first night after getting lost using the WAZE app on my iPhone that was taking us who knows where even though we wanted the Congress Hotel, we gave up and hailed a taxi, we walked and walked. After not walking much on the train we made up for lost time going up Michigan Avenue and over to Grant Park and the Buckingham Fountain. My friend enjoyed the sites and while crowded to me with people and skyscrapers I am sure it is nothing like say Shanghai.
Morning on Lake Michigan
    The next morning was beautiful ... springlike in fact. I have been there where you wore short sleeves one day and the next dressed like an eskimo as it was 17ยบ outside. We had breakfast at a sidewalk cafe and decided to hit the Art Institute. There were a few pieces I wanted him to see and explained that it was big and we could stay a few hours and move on.
   We left at closing and I don't think saw 10% of the art there. Luckily they had information desks to help you find rooms of art you were looking for. It was fun and for me, wonderful to see old favorites ... Seuret's AFTERNOON ON THE GRAND JATTE, Van Gogh's SELF PORTRAIT, Renoir's TWO SISTERS and many many more.
Yummy Superman and
Blue Moon
Ice Cream at Kilwin's
   Hungry after missing lunch, we had a nice meal and as we approached the hotel noticed a candy store, Kilwin's. We went in to check out the chocolates and were given samples. Too sweet for him he went over to check out the ice cream. Intrigued I ordered "Blue Moon" that left my mouth blue and he ordered "Superman" that had streaks of blue, red, yellow and green. Not sure exactly what the flavor was but it sure was good.
Chicago's Miracle Mile on Michigan Avenue
  No trip to Chicago is at all complete of course without a visit to the Miracle Mile and its tony high-end stores. I was surprised at the changes though and saw that the old Sun-Times newspaper building was replaced by a new Trump Tower, quite a feat considering the small footprint right on the
The new Trump Tower replaced
the old Sun-Times Newspaper building
Chicago River. Some of the mega stores were gone but many remained with new ones added and we looked but didn't buy. I mentioned that he should look here as he might find some 
deals for similar items at the Cabazon Outlets near Palm Springs. Its fun to look knowing that you can't or don't have to buy. Having only carry on suitcases one doesn't have a lot of room!
   I had been told to take the boat architectural tour and so we did. Our guide knew everything about every building and it was fascinating. Just about every high-rise design was used in Chicago, a city that started the trend with Louis Sullivan who built the first steel framed skyscraper.  He was also mentor to Frank Lloyd Wright considered by many American's finest architect.
   I had several places I wanted to eat at but discovered you can't go home again. Carson's For Ribs, one of my favorites had changed the menu and no longer offered draft beer. Berghoff's was still there after a hiccup and closing, and the German food was good but we would miss the Oktoberfest festivities. Meals were good with several places chosen at random surprisingly good.
   On one of my visits the city was adorned with cows decorated by artists that after a certain time were auctioned off. This trip there were fiberglass police dogs everywhere decorated by famous and not so famous artists that would be auctioned and the money given to the police department. It was fun finding them and seeing how different one dog could be from another even though the fiberglass shape was identical!
Fiberglas police dogs adorned the city. Various artists painted them and soon they will be auctioned off with proceedsgoing to the Chicago Police Department

 One of the neat things about Chicago is its sculptures and fountains. There are several fountains and sculptures that demand your attention and are fun to watch day or night. 
Like a giant silver jelly bean the Cloudgate is a popular site!
 There is also the awesome Cloudgate a gigantic Stainless steel jelly bean sculpture that you can look at and walk through the effect is almost hypnotic as you negotiate through the crowds looking upwards trying to see and oftentimes lose your balance as you try to walk through.
   The first fountain that comes to mind is the grand olde dame of Chicago fountains, the Buckingham Fountain in Grant Park, almost across the street from our hotel. It is worth seeing during the day and at night for its light show!
 
During a sunny day you can spot a rainbow


  It is hard to say which is the best time to see it ... day or night but the truth be told, each time offers its own rewards for viewing. The night scene shown here got us quite wet when the wind changed directions! This photo doesn't do the fountain justice as I have some videos taken with my phone that show it in all its glory!
An amazing sculpture of water and light
The Crown Fountain
  Another amazing fountain, best seen at night, is the Crown Fountain that shows a face at each end that seems to change from a woman to a man and back again. Three sides change color with water running down them but the faces face each other and at some point water is spit from their mouths. It has a kind of prurient attraction.
  Chicago is definitely a city for walking. Michigan Avenue has museums south of the Chicago River. You have the Art Institue, one of the finest museums in the world, the Field Museum with all kinds of bones, stones and the like, the Shed Aquarium with it's collections of fish. North of the River there is fine shopping, malls, and restaurants. You can walk alongside the river on Wacker and then there is State, Lasalle and Wabash that include shopping and several fine and famous restaurants.
   Friends had urged me to take the architectural boat tour of the city. Chicago is the birthplace of the skyscraper. Louis Sullivan was the first architect to use a steel frame covered with a facade freeing the limitations of height. Sullivan was the mentor of an even more famous native son, Frank Lloyd Wright who changed the way we looked at living quarters forever. I encourage you to take the tour and see some of the finest buildings ever built. We took the tour just below the Michigan Street

Bridge. Our guide was a font of information enlightening us not only about the buildings and why they were built but how their uses changed over the years. Utterly fascinating.
   Another event we just happened to stumble upon was a wedding being held on the steps of the Art Institute. The bride, groom, pastor and a gaggle of people including passersby stopped to watch this. On consideration I thought, why not? If this is one of your favorite places go for it.
On the Navy Pier, this new addition, a 200 ft.
Ferris Wheel, was only two weeks old!
   Another place that is fun is the old Navy Pier undergoing a transformation for its next 100 years. Many people do not know the Ferris Wheel was an invention for the 1894 Chicago World's Fair, their attempt to rival the 1889 Paris World's Fair with the Eiffel Tower. The fair was to show the world the city had recovered from it's fire, a fire that destroyed over 66% of the city.
Your hardy travelers with their buddy
Sue, the Field Museum's T Rex!
   We had a wonderful visit, partially planned and partially whatever we stumbled upon. I do believe you can to often overplay.
   Chicago is a great city designed for its citizens but one can only wonder, as with any large city, at what price. There is a tension here that is not the normal mid-western kindness and generosity.

Thank you for reading my blog. I invite you to take the time to read earlier blogs where the emphasis is to explore the ways art and design affects our daily lives ... and always has. I share with you what inspires me with the hope that it will inspire you as well. Comments are always welcomed! Be sure to check my re-opened ETSY store ... KrugsStudio.etsy.com. Many of the items talked about here are for sale there!













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